Sunday, September 18, 2011

Hong Kong Part 1: Lantau Island and Macau

Chuseok is the Korean thanksgiving holiday and my school was scheduled to be closed from the 12th of September to the 14th. I decided to maximize on this time off and take an extra two vacation days in order to have a full week of travelling. My destination: Hong Kong!

I arrived in Hong Kong shortly after 11pm on Sunday, September 11. My friend Alicia was at the airport waiting for me when I walked through the gates. It was so nice to see a familiar face from home and I was relieved that we found each other so easily.

We got onto the train and soon arrived to our destination: her friend’s house. As this was a long weekend in Hong Kong as well, many people were travelling. Alicia’s roommate Hannah had a few friends staying at the apartment so there would not be room for Alicia and I. So, Alicia’s friend kindly offered us her apartment (she was going away travelling as well). It worked out perfectly!

Once we arrived at the apartment, I put my things down and we decided to go out for a little stroll around town before bed. This was my first time in a ‘red light district’ area of town and it was quite the experience. Overall, it was just a typical city area with bars everywhere; the only exception was that there were also prostitutes in the mix. Oddly enough, I didn’t feel at all anxious or unnerved being in a ‘shady’ area of town, I actually felt slightly comforted because this was the first time in months that I had been somewhere where all of the signs were in English and people were speaking English all around me.

We continued on our stroll and walked down to the harbor front (absolutely beautiful!) and Alicia pointed out the major buildings. One of the first things I noticed about Hong Kong was how clean it was. The streets were very clean and well kept. There were always sidewalks for people to walk on. When you crossed paths with someone, they were very polite… it was great!

The next morning we got up and went to a local bakery to get breakfast. This was a treat in itself because there were so many delicious choices of baked goods. I had eaten these types of buns before in Canada when I went out for dim sum and loved them…. These ones stood up to my expectations; they were great! I thought of my friend Mel while eating them because she always referred to them as dessert buns (even though the ones we would eat were BBQ pork) it’s just because the bready part is slightly sweet and delicious!

After our brekky, we got on the subway and went on our way to Lantau Island. I was glad Alicia was there because it took all of the stress out of figuring out where to go. She’s been in Hong Kong for 3 years now and is an excellent tour guide.

We arrived at the cable cars to get to the island and decided to take a guided tour instead of doing it ourselves with the hope that we could get a little more information from the guide. We boarded out cable car and I was delighted when we were joined by a German family with two young children. I was discovering that Hong Kong was a very multicultural place and it was nice to not only be able to understand people in English but also German as well!

The cable car was quite a long journey; it’s 5.7km and lasted about 25 minutes. During that time, we had great views of the city and the island. It was interesting to see everything from above because the layout is very intricate. The airport is on a manmade island and it’s visible from above because it’s perfectly flat whereas the rest of the land is fairly mountainous.

When we arrived on the island we met with our tourguide and boarded our bus. We were soon at our first stop, a historical fishing village called Tai O. This village runs predominantly off of fishing and people live in stilt houses. Our guide told us that it is expected that the village will disappear in about 40 years because the current inhabitants are aging and their children desire more white collar jobs in cities away from the village.

We went into a local monistary where we were shown some of the traditions and beliefs. The temple smelled very strongly of incense and it is believed that when you light incense (in 3 sticks, one for heaven, earth, and personal connections) you can say a prayer or wish and the smoke from the incense will carry it to the gods. Our guide joked that this is like a Buddhists version of E-mail.

Our guide also taught us about a method of telling the future using two moon shaped rocks. You clap the rocks together thinking of your question and then let them fall to the floor. Depending on the position they fall, you can derive your answer. This is a photo of Alicia trying that method out.

The temple here was very small and you could tell that there wasn’t a lot of money running through it… some of the areas were pretty run down, but compared to some of the other parts of town, it was well kept. Many of the spaces were quite small, I had to duck in this doorway to get through.

After the temple we were given some time to walk around and explore the village. Alicia and I decided to use our time to try some local goodies! We had some nice pastries and then bought some almond cookies… a local specialty! There was also tons of fish and fish bladders (yes!) to try but we decided to stay on the straight and narrow.

On the bus ride back to the main area, our tour guide gave us some interesting tidbits about Hong Kong. Apparently only 25% of the land in Hong Kong is being used, and although it seems so multicultural, 95% of residents are Chinese. Hong Kong also has one of the highest population density rates in the world with 6480 people/km squared. It was interesting to get these facts because I wouldn’t have known otherwise.

When we returned back to the main area, we walked to the Po Lin Monastery, which was a much bigger, glitzy monastery. There were beautiful flowers and fresh fruit everywhere and the guide gave us more information on the different customs.

After that came the big climb to the Buddha. The Giant Buddha is the largest outdoor bronze Buddha in the world! It took twelve years to build and was completed in 1993 (I was kind of disappointed by this, because I thought it was ancient, haha). There are 265 steps to climb in order to get to the top, but once you’re up there the view is absolutely stunning!

The Buddha is 112ft tall and his right hand is lifted which represents the removal of affliction. There are six smaller statues surrounding the Buddha which give offerings of flowers, incense, lamp, ointment, fruit and music. It was very neat to walk around and view all of these beautiful figures. Also, after climbing all of the way up, it was nice to sit down and take a breather.

On our way down from the giant Buddha we decided it was time to refuel so we stopped at a Turkish place for lunch and had kababs. Then we went for dessert at another restaurant which was a totally new experience. I had this mango soup (cold) with little glutinous rice balls and green tea ice cream. It sounds odd but it was like a party in my mouth!

Coming home from Lantau we were exhausted so we decided to have a little nap before going out again. We got up later and headed to the city centre in Causeway Bay. Monday night was a special night because it was the lantern festival in Hong Kong. The park was lit up with different lanterns and there was a huge dragon dance going on.

We arrived early for the dragon dance and the streets were already crowded. When the dragon finally appeared, I was shocked by how big it was (67 meters long!). The entire thing was constructed out of incense sticks and it had a bright red glow and a trail of smelly smoke was left behind it. It was a really neat sight to see.

After the dragon dance we met up with some of Alicia’s friends and had drinks and mooncakes. The moon cakes are another specialty during the mid-autumn festival. They are made from ground lotus and sesame seed paste. They also have a dried egg yolk in the middle of them. They were very rich but also tasty. Apparently they’re only available for a couple of weeks during the year so I felt it was a very traditional experience.

We later walked through Victoria park where we saw thousands of different lanterns of all different shapes and sizes. Finally, we met back up with friends at a local club. Walking there I told Alicia that I felt like we weren’t even in Asia anymore, it was so multicultural.

The club we went to was at the top of a high story building and on the terrace you could see out over the entire city… such a view! It was a great night of fun music and lots of dancing.

Waking up on Tuesday morning was a bit difficult but we had a big day ahead of us so we had to get going. First on the plan was “Dialogue in the Dark”. It’s a worldwide exhibit that has locations in over 26 countries. The whole idea is to educate people and allow them to experience being visually impaired. The exhibit takes you through five different environments that are in complete darkness: a park, a ferry, a market, a video theater and a café. At the beginning you’re given a cane and a visually impaired guide walks you through the exhibit explaining how to ‘see’ with your other senses.

This was a fantastic experience! I learned that I would be a horrible blind person because I had a very difficult time using my other senses when I couldn’t see. Although I could hear the guide, I found it difficult to trust myself enough to move and not to injure myself in the process. The facility itself was very well laid out and I was impressed by how much I learned and was impacted by the experience. I never knew what it would be like to be visually impared before and spending over an hour in an environment where you have to rely on your other senses to do things makes you empathetic to the people who have to go through it every day.

It also allowed me to view visually impaired people in a different light. Before, I viewed them as being disadvantaged however through this experience I was able to see how truly knowledgeable my guide was and how she was able to experience the world in a unique way. In order to get around and do things as a visually impaired person, you have to be very skilled at using your other senses. I have a lot of respect for people who do.

The Dialogue in the Dark mission says this “In the dark, roles are reversed—the blind becomes sighted, and the sighted are lead by the blind. Our guides teach participants how to appreciate each environment without light—even without vision there is much beauty in the world to be found”. What an awesome experience to have!

Later we boarded the ferry and went to another Special Administrative Region of China called Macau. This was a Portuguese colony and was the only European colony in China. When we arrived and went through customs, I noticed that it had a very different feel than other Asian areas—very European!

After coming out of the arrival area, we were bombarded with tour packages and taxi services. Finally we decided to take a rickshaw to get a more outdoorsy feel of the area. It was beautiful driving through the streets (although I felt bad for our peddler when it was slightly uphill). We stopped right outside of St. Paul’s Cathedral and explored on foot.


The views were so charming and rich. The ruins of the cathedral reminded me of the European touring I’ve done in earlier years. After exploring the cathedral, we walked up the fortress to get a higher (and greener) view of the city… so nice!

Finally we took a cab to the Venetian which was on the other side of the island. Initially I thought the concept of recreating Venice in Asia was pretty cheesy but then I saw the place and it had a huge wow factor. It is a 40 story, $2.4 billion resort, casino and hotel. The 10,500,000 square foot building is the largest single structure hotel building in Asia and has a huge variety of shopping, restaurants, spas, exhibits, shows, casinos and gondola rides (with opera singers). There is even a theater designed for the Cirque de Soleil show Zaia (which I would have loved to see, but didn’t know about it).

When Alicia and I arrived the first thing we go to the casino. I put 10 bucks into the slot and was quite impressed when I won… then I lost some… then I won some again. Knowing that we were in a bit of a rush, I cashed out at just over $14, and was pleased that I had come out ahead by a few dollars. We were looking for one of those check out machines when it dawned on me that converted, I was holding less than two bucks in my hand, haha. What a joke! So we went back to the machines and Alicia tried out her luck on the slots… it didn’t last long, but that’s ok, there were other things to do.

We were amazed by the extravagant décor and spaciousness of the area. We walked around until we came to a sign reading “Fun Ice World”… what could be better?! We bought tickets and headed into a world of frosty splendor. Although they gave us big coats, it was freezing (-15 degrees Celsius) and we rushed through a little too quickly. There were different sculptures from all over the world and even a ice slide that we could slide down… fun!

Finally we decided dinner was in order. Because Macau was Portuguese based, we decided that would be the appropriate theme for the evening. We asked at the front desk where the best place would be and they recommended a restaurant in the casino. We went and were impressed with the meals. I don’t remember having Portuguese before, and I really enjoyed the flavors.

After arriving back home we were wiped! Poor Alicia had to get up early the next morning to teach. Luckily I was able to sleep in a bit more before my tour started.

Birthday in Busan


On the night before my birthday I sat down with a bottle of wine and sipped away, feeling increasingly more sorry for myself with each sip. Although I am loving my time here in Korea, I was feeling very far away from all of my family and friends back in Canada. Thinking of years past with celebrations including my close loved ones made me miss the comfort and familiarity of home. I went to sleep a few hours later in a very lonely state.

When I woke up the next morning, I was pleasantly greeted with birthday text messages, emails and facebook posts. I got myself ready because I had plans to meet some of my girlfriends at the beach for brunch. At around 10am, there was a surprise knock on my door. Standing there were my friends Amy, Dorrial, Amanda and Derya wearing party hats, holding a lit cake and singing Happy Birthday to me in the hallway. To say I was surprised would have been a huge understatement. As many of you know, I am a fairly emotional person (and sometimes those emotions come out as the opposite of what is expected) so, in the midst of this joyous gathering… of course I start crying. And yes, Dorrial got it all on tape!

My friends came in and I started off the morning with a cup of coffee and a slice of delicious blueberry cheesecake. I was thinking to myself how silly I was the night before… I am so blessed to have such a wonderful group of friends here in Korea… we really are like a small family.

After the cake and celebrations, we made our way down to the beach where we enjoyed a huge and very satisfying North American style brunch. It was the best of both worlds: food that doesn’t set you on fire while you eat it, and the wonderful view of Gwangan beach. We had some great conversations and enjoyed the morning together.

Soon after lunch I went into work. A few of my coworkers knew it was my birthday and congratulated me. Shortly after 4, I went over to the younger kids campus and a few of the kids said “Happy Birthday Laura teacher” which really surprised me… I was shocked that they knew. When I got to the main reception area, all of the lights were turned off and there were two big cakes with candles lit waiting for me. All of the kids and teachers burst into “happy birthday” and again, made me feel so special.

The day made me recognize how truly blessed I am… to be surrounded by people who go out of their way to make me feel special and valued. What great memories to look back on during future birthdays from now.

As I was teaching my classes, the kids made sure to give me High-fives and congratulatory comments… they were all really good too! All in all, a very rewarding day!

Later that evening, a few of us went out to Seomyeon to a German/Bavarian bar for some drinks. It was a great way to wind down from the day and have a few laughs. I went home later that night feeling great to be here in Korea, especially since I’m surrounded by so many awesome people!

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Summer Vacation: Geochang and Namwon

This is a long time overdue, but August 1-3 were my school’s summer vacation days. I had planned to go on a small trip with 3 co-workers (Nam, Migon and Amy) and we met Monday morning thinking that we’d head out to an island and spend the night.


Plans changed slightly when we were told that a bad storm was coming and we might become stranded on the island if we decided to go. Instead, we chose a small town about 3 hours away that was having a theater festival that weekend. The town was called Geochang and when we arrived, we were all pleasantly surprised by the large amounts of grass, trees and flowers. These are things that are not commonly seen in Busan.

Our first priority was to find a place to sleep for the night. This town was extremely old and some of the Korean traditional houses (Hanoks) dated back 300 years! Unfortunately, due to the popularity of the festival going on, there were no rooms left anywhere!

Nam went out in search of a room while Migon, Amy and I walked around and observed the area. We came across this large tree (which was said to be 600 years old!) with a patio beneath it. When we walked closer, we were greeted by a group of old men. They were so friendly and so interested that “Americans” would visit their town. Amy and I had a nice time interacting with them while Migon translated. We got to talking and they suggested that there might be a person who would let us sleep in their house.

Nam was still on the search when we were led to a room in a family’s house that they were offering us for the night. It wasn’t super traditional, but it was a place to sleep and that was fine for us.

We later found out that pretty much the entire town is one large family and their spouses. Everyone works together in this close knit community and it seems like there is a great sense of unity.

After we put our things away in our room, we went back outside in search of food… we were all famished by this point. There was a small restaurant that we went into and Nam took care of the ordering (It’s so nice to travel with people who speak the language… not everything is such a struggle). When our food came out, it was a HUGE platter of chicken, veggies, potatoes and sauce all eaten with rice and small side dishes. There was more than enough and it definitely hit the spot!

As we were dining on the floor, Amy was the first one to sprawl out after overeating… the food was delicious, but we were all rather full by the end. We decided a nice walk would be nice. Goechang has a large river that runs through it and it’s the perfect place to walk or play in the water. We went for a stroll and got our feet wet… it was so nice to be back in nature!

There were many things going on in the area. Huge groups of people were camping and the smell of a campfire made me extremely nostalgic for my family’s annual ‘cousin camp’. it was great to see so many children outdoors interacting with their families and having a great time.


We had planned to go back to our room, get our swimming gear and head down to the river to swim but there was an announcement saying that heavy rain was approaching. This sped up the process a bit and we decided to go into the water immediately.

Now, the thing about Korea is that people are very conservative. At the beach, it’s rare that you’ll see a Korean in a bathing suit; usually they’ll go swimming in shorts and a t-shirt or even jeans! The river was no different, people were swimming in full, outfits. This posed a slight problem for me because I didn’t want to be walking around with wet clothes for the next two days SO I decided that I would go in the river in my underwear and tank top.

When I mentioned this idea, Nam was slightly horrified and told me that people would stare at me. This is not new news for me though, because people always stare, so what’s the difference?!? In the end Amy, Migon and I went in slightly scantily clad while Nam sported her capris and t-shirt.

It was really enjoyable being in the water. Although it was slightly cold, we had fun splashing around and floating on the tube Nam bought. It was a beautiful evening and we were surrounded by nature and laughter.

After we came out, we grabbed some munchies and headed back to our room. There was a little girl talk, a lot of chocolate and then everyone drifted off.

The next morning we got up bright and early. Migon took a bus back but Nam, Amy and I decided to keep on exploring for the day. It was forecasted to be strong rain and a possible storm but by mid-morning the sun was shining and it was beautiful! We took a walk around the town to see all of the beautiful historic hanoks. The landscape was SO different from Busan. In Busan, it’s rare to see grass or a tree; here there was vegetation everywhere—so refreshing! I didn’t realize how much I’d miss nature, but when you’re in a city crammed with 4 million people, there not a lot of room for gardens and lawns.

After our walk we packed up and took a taxi. During our taxi ride, Nam was talking with the driver and he told her about this beautiful park about 30 minutes away. Instead of going to our original plans, we decided to take the driver’s advice and he took us to Namwon.

This area was also a beautiful camping spot with a river. The day had cleared up beautiful and it was the perfect weather. We hiked up this big hill and came to a Buddhist temple at the top. There weren’t many people around so we freely explored the grounds and even rang the bell.

The temples here are so intricate and beautiful. You can see the immense work and dedication that goes into building them. I’m always interested when I see someone bowing down and saying their prayers in front of a Buddha. Although it’s not something I believe, it’s interesting to witness it.

After the temple we walked around and came across this big, beautiful waterfall. It looked so natural and powerful. We kept exploring and eventually walked out to the water’s edge where we put our feet in. I walked out a little but could barely take two steps because the current was so strong, I’d get washed away.

We kept wandering and soon came to an area where there were many people playing in the water. Again, Amy and I had our suits on while everyone else was fully clothed. This area was great because the current wasn’t too strong but it was still fun.

The most interesting thing was that the constant stream of water had eroded a water slide out of a large rock. Beneath it, the water was very deep so you could ride down this water slide and then plunge into the water below… very thrilling!

I was slightly nervous to do it at first but then I saw an older lady go in and have a blast and I thought if she can do it, so can I. Nam isn’t a strong swimmer and she was nervous about going in so she put her tube around herself, Amy helped her at the top and I was waiting for her at the bottom. When she did it, she loved it!

We spent hours playing and lounging in the water… a great way to spend time together and to relax. When we got hungry we ordered some food at a nearby restaurant and discussed how wonderful the past couple of days had been.

Eventually, we took a bus back to the larger area of town and then boarded a bus back to Busan. The bus was supposed to take 3 1/2 hours but it ended up taking almost 5 due to traffic and I have recently realized that I’ve inherited my mother’s poor ability to travel. I was feeling very carsick on the ride home and Nam was so great and tried to find things to help me… she was being such an awesome ‘mother’.

I was happy when we got back to Busan but even more pleased about the past couple of days. What an awesome way to spend summer vacation!